Made to Measure

September 18, 2023
This thorough debut manual from Jewell, founder of the sewing pattern label By Hand London, shows DIYers how to create and execute custom sewing patterns. She provides illustrations detailing where on the body to take measurements and offers such tips as “take your waist and full-hip measurements seated as well as standing so you can take the normal expansion of seated flesh into consideration.” The projects explain how to use those measurements to draft patterns for a sheath skirt, jumpsuit, shirred dress, “billow-sleeve backward blouse,” and other pieces. The garments range in difficulty from the easy “refashioned sweater dress,” made from carving up sweaters into horizontal strips and reassembling them, to the harder “siren slip dress,” which requires creating a drawstring rouleau neck and cutting pieces from satin or silk on an angle to the fabric’s grain to accentuate the material’s “almost-liquid quality.” Jewell’s helpful advice for fixing common issues includes how to correct garments that gape, fit too tightly or loosely, or have an uneven hem. The comprehensive guidance covers an impressive range of garb and techniques, and is presented in a manner straightforward enough that even novice sewists will feel prepared to tackle the projects. The result is a superior guide on creating custom clothing.

October 1, 2023

Sewists of all levels who are curious about creating fashionable wardrobe pieces from start to finish will be overjoyed to find this book by Jewell, a well-known pattern designer. Beginning with explanations of sewing basics, fabrics, and must-have tools, the book offers tips and tricks that those new to the craft will appreciate. Experienced sewists can benefit too from the book's answers to questions they might have had during other projects. Jewell reminds readers that any body type can look chic and well put together in any style if the pattern is customized to their shape, and she strives to instill confidence in crafters nervous about drafting their own patterns. The book breaks down important considerations such as understanding shoulder width and factors that change the way a skirt may lie. The "Draft-It-Yourself Projects" section showcases ideas for fashionable patterns that can be produced and modified for any body shape. The projects are graded for difficulty, giving readers a chance to assess what will be appropriate for their skill set. VERDICT A welcome addition to sewing technique and pattern books. Readers interested in creating their own wardrobe will seek out this title.--Elizabeth Majka

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