Project Fire

Starred review from March 5, 2018
Author and TV chef Raichlen is in fine form in this collection of recipes and techniques for the grill, a follow-up to Project Smoke. An expansive first chapter provides suggestions for picking proper tools and fuels; the following dozen chapters turn up the heat on a variety of meats, breads, seafood, and vegetables. Many ingredients for starters and salads are placed directly on the flames: onions, tomatoes, and peppers are charred on coals for an ember salsa; a wedge salad features quartered heads of iceberg, grill marked on the outside but cool and crunchy within. The hearty steak dishes come with flair: a first-timer’s T-bone is made foolproof by the addition of sizzling beef fat poured over it, and dry-brined peppered filet mignon is served with a dollop of anchovy cream—heavy cream, oil-packed anchovy, and a clove of garlic to boot. (Lest anyone object, Raichlen reminds that anchovy is the key ingredient of several popular steak sauces.) Even the lowly hot dog is celebrated via crosshatch cutting that exposes more surface area to the grill; the cooked dogs are served on rolls slathered with a Creole mustard sauce. Photographer Matthew Benson, an organic farmer himself, excels in capturing the contours of such nonmeat entries as chive-grilled artichokes and Thai grilled kale. Raichlen once again enthusiastically brings spark and creativity to cooking on flames.

April 15, 2018
Barbecue savant Raichlen comes forth with yet another addition to his magisterial collection embracing all things outdoor cooking. It's hard to imagine that he has found anything to add to his oeuvre, but his latest effort contributes useful new information for both novice backyard cooks and experienced grill chefs. New barbecuing technologies have come into full flower. Exciting, colorful new ceramic cookers attract in unique shapes and sizes. All manner of new devices, from powerful gas grills with side burners to electronic thermometers attached to cell phones, help ensure greater control over cooking processes. Raichlen's ever-inventive recipes, such as pork loin Reuben, challenge backyard entertainers. Some main dishes may seem familiar, but Raichlen suggests ways to make them new with sauces and salsas reflecting a host of ethnic traditions. Vegetarians will be intrigued by rotisserie cauliflower, and dessert lovers will drool over brownie s'mores grilled on a salt slab and served with artisanal marshmallows.(Reprinted with permission of Booklist, copyright 2018, American Library Association.)