NOPI

September 21, 2015
London’s NOPI (North of Picadilly) in Soho, the most formal of the Ottolenghi family of eateries, is the inspiration for this cookbook from the acclaimed chef/author. More than 100 chic plates for ambitious cooks expand Ottolenghi’s trademark fare. With head chef Ramael Scully, Ottolenghi (Jerusalem) presents NOPI’s signature dishes, collaborations between two world cuisines: Scully’s Malaysian-Australian roots combine with Ottolenghi’s Israeli-inspired palate to create bold, vibrant fare with Mediterranean/Asian twists. Garlicky lamb, marinated with rosemary and then grilled, combines with coconut milk and peanuts. There are beef brisket croquettes served with lime, snap peas, and Asian coleslaw. Seared quail in an oven-charred miso butterscotch paste is dressed with pomegranate walnut salsa. Recipes include starters, salads, sides; fish, meat, vegetables; brunches; and desserts. Cocktails, condiments, meal suggestions, and a key ingredient list from the NOPI pantry are also featured. Many detailed dishes involve multiple levels of preparation, with some marinades and garnishes requiring smoking or pickling. Ottolenghi offers tips to ease preparation, such as mise en place, proper recipe reading, equipment suggestions, and so-called alternative routes. Nevertheless, he sometimes faces difficulty translating labor-intensive restaurant dishes into something accessible for home cooks, and some of the more cumbersome recipes just may exceed their grasp.